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1 picks per minute
Текстиль: количество ударов в минуту (единица измерения скорости ткацкого станка), число уточных прокидок в минуту -
2 picks per minute
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3 picks per minute
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4 loom speed in picks per minute
English-Russian dictionary on textile and sewing industry > loom speed in picks per minute
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5 p. p. m.
(picks per minute) число уточных прокидок в минуту -
6 p. p. m.
(picks per minute) число уточных прокидок в минуту -
7 Jacquard Machine
The jacquard machine is an essential addition to looms intended for weaving ornamental designs that are beyond the scope of stave -work. The machine is made in many forms and sizes for different branches of the weaving industry, but its characteristic feature is that it furnishes the means whereby every individual thread in a design may weave differently from all the others. This permits the delineation of all forms and shapes and the fineness of the detail is only limited by the texture, e.g., the number of ends and picks per inch. The action of the jacquard machine is communicated to the warp threads through a system of cords known variously as the harness mounting and jacquard harness. Actually, loom harness ante-dated the jacquard machine by many centuries, and many draw loom harnesses were much more complicated than modern jacquard harnesses. An essential feature of a jacquard is that each hook in the machine can be lifted at will independently of the others. The selection of which hooks shall lift and which shall be left down is made by the designer, by painting marks on squared paper to indicate the hooks that must be lifted on each pick. In cutting the pattern cards, a hole is cut for every mark or filled square on the design paper, and a blank is left for every empty square on the paper. Assuming that each pattern card represents one pick of weft, when the card is pressed against the needles of the jacquard, the blanks push the unwanted needles and hooks out of the path of the lifting griffe; the holes allow the needles to pass through and thus remain stationary, so that the corresponding hooks remain in the path of the lifting griffe and cause the corresponding warp threads to be lifted. Jacquard: Single-lift, single-cylinder - In this machine there is only one griffe which lifts on every pick, and only one pattern cylinder, which strikes every pick. This restricts the speed at which the loom can be operated. Jacquard: Double-lift, single-cylinder - This is the machine in most common use for ordinary jacquard work. There are two lifting griffes and twice as many hooks as in a single-lift machine, but only the same number of needles and one card cylinder. The shed formed is of the semi-open type, which causes less movement of the warp threads, as any threads which require to be up for two or more picks in succession are arrested in their fall and taken up again. Double-lift jacquards give a greatly increased loom production as compared with single-lift machines, as they permit the speed of the loom to be increased to about 180 picks per minute for narrow looms, as compared with 120 to 140 picks per minute for single-lift jacquards. Jacquard: Double-lift, double-cylinder - In this machine there are two sets of hooks and needles, two lifting griffes and two card cylinders, odd picks in one set of cards and even picks in the other set. This permits maximum loom speed, it prolongs the life of the pattern cards, but is open to the serious drawback that spoiled cloth is caused whenever the two card cylinders get out of correct rotation. Jacquard: Cross Border - Fabrics with borders, such as tablecloths, bed quilts, etc., are woven with jacquards with two griffes, two sets of hooks and two card cylinders. The cards for weaving the border are laced together and weave on one cylinder, while the centre cards are on the other cylinder. The loom weaves at the speed of a single-cylinder, single-lift machine, and the change from the border to the centre cards can be made by hand or automatically
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8 Pääbo, Max
SUBJECT AREA: Textiles[br]b. Estonia fl. 1950s Sweden[br]Estonian inventor of one of the most successful looms, in which the weft is sent across the warp by a jet of air.[br]The earliest patent for using a jet of air to propel a shuttle across a loom was granted to J.C. Brooks in 1914. A different method was tried by E.H.Ballou in 1929, but the really important patent was taken out by Max Pääbo, a refugee from Estonia. He exhibited his machine in Sweden in 1951, weaving cotton cloth 80 cm (31 1/2 in.) wide at a speed of 350 picks per minute, but it was not widely publicized until 1954. One shown in Manchester in 1958 ran at 410 picks per minute while weaving 90 cm (35 1/2 in.) cloth. His looms were called "Maxbo" after him. They had no shuttle; instead a jet of air drove a measured amount of weft drawn from a supply package across the warp threads. Efficient control of the airstream was the main reason for its success; not only was weaving much quicker, but it was also much quieter than traditional methods, and as the warp was nearly vertical the looms took up little space. Manufacture of these looms in Sweden ceased in 1962, but development continued in other countries.[br]Further ReadingJ.J.Vincent, 1980, Shuttle less Looms, Manchester (a good account of the development of modern looms).RLH -
9 pick-recorder
picks per minute, picks p.m.число прокидок в одну минуту; число ударов в одну минутуEnglish-Russian dictionary on textile and sewing industry > pick-recorder
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10 количество ударов в минуту
Универсальный русско-английский словарь > количество ударов в минуту
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11 число уточных прокидок в минуту
Textile: picks per minuteУниверсальный русско-английский словарь > число уточных прокидок в минуту
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12 Dobby Machines
These are exceedingly useful machines for forming the shed in weaving, since they can be used for both simple and complicated weaves. There are many types in use, most of which are negative acting in so far as they only lift the healds, springs being used beneath the healds to bring them down again after being lifted by the dobby. In the cotton trade 16 up 20 jacks is usual. Dobbies in common use are known as single lift, double lift, negative, positive, open shed, closed shed, and crossborder. Single Lift - In this type there is a single knife or griffe in use to raise the heald stave. The whole of the shafts return to their original position after each pick. A fresh selection of staves to be raised is made for each pick. Looms fitted with this dobby run slower than others, about 140 picks per minute. Double Lift - These machines are fitted with double selecting and lifting parts which move at half the speed of the loom. They give an open or semi-open shed. The speed of the loom is considerably more than for the single-lift type. Crossborder - This machine is used when headings or a change of weave is required as for bordered handkerchiefs, serviettes, towels, etc. Positive - Dobby machines which make an open shed and positively lift and depress the heald staves as required by the design. Negative - Dobbies which only lift the heald staves, and require springs or other means to move the staves to the bottom position. Centre Shed - Every thread of the warp is moved for every new shed. The shed opens from the middle. Some healds ascend and the others descend. Closed Shed - So termed because all the warp threads are brought to one level after each succeeding pick as in single-lift machines. Open Shed - The type generally used for automatic looms, also the double-lift machines. After a heald stave is lifted it remains up until it is required to be down again. The warp threads constantly form two lines, upper and lower, and the only changes are when threads move from line to the other. Semi-open Shed - This shed has a stationary bottom line, and to make changes, threads pass from the top to the bottom, or from the bottom to the top. The threads which remain up for more than one pick in succession only fall halfway and then go to the top again. -
13 Austin, John
SUBJECT AREA: Textiles[br]fl. 1789 Scotland[br]Scottish contributor to the early development of the power loom.[br]On 6 April 1789 John Austin wrote to James Watt, seeking advice about patenting "a weaving loom I have invented to go by the hand, horse, water or any other constant power, to comb, brush, or dress the yarn at the same time as it is weaving \& by which one man will do the work of three and make superior work to what can be done by the common loom" (Boulton \& Watt Collection, Birmingham, James Watt Papers, JW/22). Watt replied that "there is a Clergyman by the name of Cartwright at Doncaster who has a patent for a similar contrivance" (Boulton \& Watt Collection, Birmingham, Letter Book 1, 15 April 1789). Watt pointed out that there was a large manufactory running at Doncaster and something of the same kind at Manchester with working power looms. Presumably, this reply deterred Austin from taking out a patent. However, some members of the Glasgow Chamber of Commerce continued developing the loom, and in 1798 one that was tried at the spinning mill of J.Monteith, of Pollokshaws, near Glasgow, answered the purpose so well that a building was erected and thirty of the looms were installed. Later, in 1800, this number was increased to 200, all of which were driven by a steam engine, and it was stated that one weaver and a boy could tend from three to five of these looms.Austin's loom was worked by eccentrics, or cams. There was one cam on each side with "a sudden beak or projection" that drove the levers connected to the picking pegs, while other cams worked the heddles and drove the reed. The loom was also fitted with a weft stop motion and could produce more cloth than a hand loom, and worked at about sixty picks per minute. The pivoting of the slay at the bottom allowed the loom to be much more compact than previous ones.[br]Further ReadingA.Rees, 1819, The Cyclopaedia: or Universal Dictionary of Arts, Sciences and Literature, London.R.Guest, 1823, A Compendius History of the Cotton Manufacture, Manchester.A.P.Usher, 1958, A History of Mechanical Inventions.W.English, 1969, The Textile Industry, London.R.L.Hills, 1970, Power in the Industrial Revolution, Manchester.See also: Cartwright, Revd EdmundRLH -
14 Svaty, Vladimir
SUBJECT AREA: Textiles[br]fl. 1950 Czechoslovakia[br]Czech inventor of a loom across which the weft was projected by a jet of water.[br]Since the 1930s people have been experimenting with ways of inserting the weft during weaving without using a massive shuttle. This would save wasting the energy that a shuttle requires to accelerate it through the warp and which is only to be lost when the shuttle is stopped in its box. Around 1950, the Czech engineer Vladimir Svaty had been working on air-jet looms, in which the weft was wafted across the loom by a jet of air. He then switched his interest to waterjet looms, and in 1955, at the Brussels exhibition, the first water-jet loom was displayed to a surprised world. In 1959 the Czechs had installed 150 of these looms at Semily in Czechoslovakia, weaving cloth 41 in. (104 cm) wide at 350 picks per minute. Water-jet looms are suitable only for certain types of synthetic fibres which are not affected by the wet. They are compact, quiet, mechanically simple and free from weft vibration. They find their most appropriate use in weaving simple fabrics from water-insensitive, continuous-filament yarn, which they can produce economically and with the highest quality.[br]Further ReadingJ.J.Vincent, 1980, Shuttleless Looms, Manchester (written with inside knowledge of the problems; the author tried to develop a shuttleless loom himself).RLH
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